Changu Narayan Temple is located in the wooded heights of Champak Hill in Bhaktapur and is considered one of the oldest Hindu temples after Pashupatinath. It is believed to have been built by King Haridatta Barma in the 4th century, dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is one of the Kathmandu Valley’s four Narayan shrines.
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History of Changu Narayan Temple
Changu Narayan Temple is believed to have been originally established in the early Licchavi period. There is a sandstone pillar with inscriptions by King Manadeva (464–505 AD) found within the temple complex, which is the oldest known inscription in Nepal. Though originally the temple was built by King Haridatta Barma, the temple suffered significant damage in a fire and was reconstructed in 1702 AD by King Bhupalendra Malla, preserving its spiritual and architectural identity for future generations. There is a mythological story behind the emergence of the temple.
Mythical Origins:
Long ago, a humble cowherd (Gwala) purchased a special cow that was renowned for her abundant milk from a Brahmin named Sudarshan. But when Gwala took that cow to his home, he was confused as the cow began giving far less milk than expected. Curious and concerned, he returned to Sudarshan, and together, they decided to observe the cow’s daily grazing ritual in the Changu forest. There, they saw that the cow stood each day beneath a particular tree, where a mysterious Black boy would emerge and drink her milk. Mistaking him for a spirit, they tried to cut down the tree. But as they struck the axe, fresh human blood spilt from the trunk. Seeing blood coming out of the tree shocked both of them.
They prayed for forgiveness at that time, and to their surprise, Lord Vishnu appeared. He revealed himself and told them that long ago, he had unknowingly killed the Brahmin’s father during a hunt and was cursed by him. He said that he lived anonymously within the tree and was nourished only by stolen milk. Honouring this divine revelation, the Brahmin and Gwala erected a shrine on the spot, thus sanctifying Changu Narayan as one of the most revered Vishnu temples in Nepal
Pooja Timings At Changu Narayan Temple
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- Opening Hours: 4:00 AM to 7:00 PM
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- Morning Pooja: 7:00 AM
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- Evening Pooja: 5:00 PM to 6:00 PM (Depending on the time of year)
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- Entry Restrictions: The temple is open to all visitors. However, access to certain places within the temple is restricted to Hindus only.
Right Time To Visit Changu Narayan Temple
The best times to go are in the spring, from March to May, and in the autumn, from September to November. The open skies and mild temperatures throughout these seasons make it ideal for seeing the temple, and Champak Hill’s natural beauty is enhanced in the spring by the pleasant weather and blossoming flora. Try not to go during the monsoon season, which runs from June to August. The heavy rains can make the walkways slick and restrict outdoor activities.
| Season | Months | Experience Highlights |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | March – May | Pleasant weather and blooming flora, ideal for sightseeing |
| Autumn | September – November | Clear skies, comfortable temperatures, and local festivals |
| Monsoon | June – August | Heavy rainfall, slippery paths, and limited outdoor activities |
| Winter | December – February | Cold weather, quieter visits, serene atmosphere |
Things To Know Before You Visit Changu Narayan Temple
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- Behaviour: Maintain silence and be respectful during rituals while visiting the temple.
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- Attire: Modest clothing is required. Men should wear shirts covering the shoulders and long pants or traditional daura-suruwal. Women are advised to wear sarees, long skirts, or salwar-kameez covering the shoulders and knees. A shawl is recommended. Avoid tight, revealing, or flashy outfits.
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- Photography: Photography is permitted in the outer courtyards and the temple complex. Avoid using flash inside the shrine and always seek permission before photographing rituals, priests, or worshippers.
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- Tip: The hilltop temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so plan a half-day with time to pause and enjoy the panoramic views.
How to Reach Changu Narayan Temple
Location: About 12 km east of Kathmandu, north of Bhaktapur
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- By Road:
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- Car or Taxi: around a 30-minute ride from Kathmandu.
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- Bus: Public buses run from Kathmandu’s Bagbazaar or Ratna Park to Bhaktapur. From there, a short bus or taxi ride takes you to Changu, followed by a 10–15 minute uphill walk.
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- By Road:
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- On Foot:
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- From Bhaktapur Durbar Square, it’s a 2–3 hour scenic hike through villages and forests
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- On Foot:
Myth vs Fact
Myth: The temple marks the exact spot where Vishnu emerged from a champak tree, seemingly manifested from legend.
Fact: While the site is tied to ancient myths and legends, the existing structure stems from Licchavi foundations and 18th-century reconstruction. Yet faith and folklore continue to saturate the site with spiritual significance.